Comme des Garçons, founded by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo in 1969, is more than just a fashion label—it is a revolutionary force that has consistently defied conventional fashion norms. From its audacious aesthetics to its disruptive business strategies, the brand has built a legacy based on experimentation, avant-garde design, and the challenging of traditional beauty standards. Over the decades, Comme des Garçons has redefined what fashion can be, setting itself apart as a boundary-pushing icon in both design and the larger cultural landscape.
Origins: A Brand with a Difference
Rei Kawakubo, a former art student, started Comme des Garçons in Tokyo with a vision that was deeply rooted in her own rejection of mainstream fashion and beauty ideals. Initially producing women’s clothing, Kawakubo’s early collections challenged conventional silhouettes by embracing asymmetry, unconventional cuts, and often dark, somber color palettes. Her designs rejected the notion of the perfect female body, instead favoring garments that distorted and obscured traditional ideas of femininity. By 1973, the label was officially established, and within a few years, it became a major player in the Japanese fashion scene.
In 1981, Comme des Garçons made its international debut in Paris. The collection, primarily black and full of loose, deconstructed shapes, was met with shock and awe. Fashion critics were divided—some applauded the bold departure from European fashion norms, while others labeled the collection as “anti-fashion.” Kawakubo, however, remained undeterred by the criticism, forging ahead with her vision. Her work introduced a new wave of Japanese designers to the world stage, helping to establish Japan as a major influence in global fashion.
Philosophy and Aesthetic
At the core of Comme des Garçons’ success is Rei Kawakubo’s commitment to innovation and her refusal to adhere to traditional norms of beauty and fashion. The label is known for its intellectual approach to design, often presenting collections that challenge the wearer to think about the relationship between clothing, body, and identity.
Kawakubo’s design philosophy is deeply rooted in the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, which finds beauty in imperfection, impermanence, and incompleteness. This perspective has led her to embrace asymmetry, unusual proportions, and raw, unfinished elements in her work. Her collections often appear to resist the idea of clothing as something meant to flatter or decorate the body. Instead, her designs frequently obscure or alter the body’s shape, creating new forms that invite viewers to question preconceived notions about the purpose and function of fashion.
One of the most notable examples of this is the 1997 collection, “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body,” which featured garments padded in unconventional places, such as the hips, shoulders, and back. These pieces distorted the wearer’s silhouette, creating exaggerated, alien-like shapes. The collection was revolutionary not only for its conceptual design but also for its impact on discussions around the female body, beauty standards, and the role of clothing in shaping identity.
Challenging Gender Norms
Comme des Garçons has consistently blurred the lines between men’s and women’s fashion, long before gender fluidity became a mainstream conversation. Kawakubo’s designs frequently ignore traditional gendered divisions, with many of her collections featuring unisex clothing or silhouettes that defy categorization. This approach reflects a larger commitment to challenging societal norms and assumptions.
In 1984, Kawakubo expanded into menswear with the launch of Comme des Garçons Homme, a line that continued her exploration of deconstruction and subversion. Just like her women’s collections, the men’s line featured oversized, asymmetric, and often unconventional designs that questioned traditional ideas of masculinity and male fashion. Over the years, this approach has helped to influence a growing trend toward gender-neutral fashion in the industry.
Business Innovations: A Global Empire
While Comme des Garçons is known for its experimental designs, it has also been a pioneer in business innovation. Under the guidance of Adrian Joffe, Kawakubo’s husband and the brand’s CEO, Comme des Garçons has expanded from a small independent label into a global fashion empire.
In 2004, the brand launched Dover Street Market (DSM), a retail concept that further exemplified its disruptive ethos. DSM is a multi-brand store that blends high fashion, streetwear, art, and design into a single space. The store’s layout and design are constantly evolving, reflecting the ever-changing nature of fashion and creativity. With locations in London, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles, Beijing, and Paris, DSM has become a key destination for fashion enthusiasts and a major platform for emerging designers.
Comme des Garçons has also embraced collaboration as a core business strategy, working with a wide range of brands and designers across diverse industries. One of the most famous collaborations is with Nike, resulting in several sneaker lines that have become cult favorites among fashion and sneaker enthusiasts. The brand has also partnered with luxury labels like Louis Vuitton and streetwear brands like Supreme, blurring the lines between high fashion and mass-market appeal.
These collaborations, along with the brand’s ability to constantly evolve, have kept Comme des Garçons relevant and influential for more than five decades. Unlike many fashion labels that rely heavily on a singular aesthetic or a “signature” look, Comme des Garçons thrives on unpredictability, challenging both itself and its audience with every new collection.
Cultural Impact: Beyond Fashion
Comme des Garçons’ influence extends far beyond the world of fashion. Rei Kawakubo’s work has been the subject of numerous exhibitions at major museums, including the 2017 retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York, titled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. The exhibition, only the second in the museum’s history to be dedicated to a living designer, explored Kawakubo’s ongoing examination of the boundaries between fashion and art.
The brand’s designs have also been embraced by a wide range of cultural figures, from avant-garde artists to pop stars. Musicians like Kanye West, Pharrell Williams, and Lady Gaga have all been spotted wearing Comme des Garçons, helping to bring the brand’s daring aesthetic to a wider, mainstream audience.
In addition to its influence in fashion and pop culture, Comme des Garçons has also had a lasting impact on the fashion industry itself. Kawakubo’s deconstructivist approach to design has influenced countless designers, from established names like Martin Margiela and Yohji Yamamoto to younger, up-and-coming talents. The brand’s embrace of imperfection, asymmetry, and unconventional beauty has challenged the fashion industry to rethink its own standards and expectations.
Conclusion: A Legacy of Innovation
Comme des Garçons stands as a testament to the power of creative vision and the importance of challenging the status quo. Rei Kawakubo’s unwavering commitment to innovation, combined with the brand’s willingness to take risks, has made Comme des Garçons one of the most influential and respected fashion labels in the world.
In an industry often driven by trends and commercial success, Comme des Garçons has remained true to its ethos of experimentation and defiance, constantly pushing the boundaries of what fashion can be. With its continued influence on fashion, culture, and business, Comme des Garçons is not just a brand—it is a philosophy, a movement, and a lasting symbol of avant-garde creativity.
